Flute Instruction Books
In playing flute, you will need instruction book for you to understand the different keys and their functions. Flute instruction begins with a proper method book. These are some guidelines in selecting flute instruction.
- Make sure the book you choose has a fingering chart. The flute range covers three octaves, starting at middle C--plus the B natural below the middle C if you get a B foot joint.
- In addition, there is about another half-octave above the standard three octaves. Try to find a book that includes the fingerings for those notes as well.
- Also get a book that includes trill fingerings. Then you won't be the one always asking for trill fingerings--you'll be the one who knows them!
- There are also particular books which includes a CD and has great illustrations.
Flute Buying Tips
There are a number of ways of finding a flute to start playing. You can Barrow or rent from a friend, but to enjoy playing flute any time you want it is better to buy your own flute.
You can buy one from music stores they have variety of flutes which you can choose from. Many music stores also sell reconditioned flutes or demonstrator models, which can be good bargains. Select the music store which has its own repair facilities and one that will guarantee the flute for a period of time. Some music stores have band instrument rental programs which allow you to rent a flute to try out flute playing.
bring along someone who does.
Buying Name Brands
If you want to buy a new flute, buy a branded one. The reputations of the better-known companies have been built by the quality of their products. Over a long period you will often find a difference in the durability of the instrument. If you don’t know which brands are most respected when it comes to flute instruments, ask other flutist for recommendations.
Features to Look For
There are several features you should look for on a flute, especially if you are buying a new instrument.
1. Curved lip plate (metal flute). This makes for easier blowing.
2. Mouth hole—average size. The two basic shapes used for the mouth hole are the oval and the rounded rectangle; either one is acceptable. The size of the mouth hole, however, should not vary too much from the average. A large mouth hole will favor the low notes at the expense of the high, while a small mouth hole will favor the high notes at the expense of the low.
3. Integral, rolled tone holes (metal flute). The walls of the holes should be raised directly from the body of the flute, instead of being soldered on, to reduce the chance of having air leaks. An exception is made in the case of some handmade flutes. These are normally fashioned with thinner metal tubing, so most makers do not raise the hole walls from the tube itself.
The tops of the holes should be curled, or “rolled,” so that no sharp edge is presented to the pad—this increases pad life. (Some flutes have tone holes that are integral but not rolled.)
4. Rib-and-post construction (metal flute). In this style of construction, the posts that hold the key mechanism are not soldered directly to the body but instead to strips of metal (ribs) that are then soldered to the body. This greatly increases the reliability of the key mechanism.
5. Regulating screws. These allow the flutist to make basic adjustments to the flute mechanism, decreasing the need for professional attention. The flute should have four or five regulating screws; flutes with more than five screws have a tendency to go out of adjustment too easily. Handmade flutes do not normally have regulating screws.
6. Pitch standard. A series of conferences in the first half of this century raised the international standard pitch from A=435 vibrations per second, to A=440.
7. Revised scale. The completely new acoustic proportions that the flute required because of the pitch change discussed above were introduced into flute manufacture only in the 1970s—and by some companies, even later. (Flutes made during the transition period were more-or-less jury-rigged affairs.) The difference shows up in improved internal tuning, evenness of tone, and better responsiveness when playing at concert pitch.
Checking Out a Used Flute
If you are buying a secondhand flute, the list below will help you to determine its condition.
1. Pads. These are the soft inserts in the keys that actually make contact with the holes. They should not be torn or yellowed and dried out.
2. Springs. These should be strong enough so that the keys return to resting position with a firm motion.
3. Action. The action should have a solid feeling. There should be free movement of all keys. No key “clicks” should be heard. Try wiggling the keys sideways—there should be very little movement.
4. Tenons. The joints should fit together snugly, but not tightly. There should be no side play when the instrument is assembled.
5. Head joint cork. Try pulling straight out on the crown (the piece at the very top). If it moves, the cork inside is too loose.
6. Mouth hole. This should have no nicks or scratches, especially on the edge you blow toward. This repair is expensive.
7. Dents (metal flute). Small dents on the body will have almost no effect, but dents on the head joint can cause tuning problems.
8. Finish (metal flute). The condition of the finish has no effect on the playing of the flute.
9. Cracked body (wood flute). This can be repaired.
10. Warped body (wood, ebonite). This can be repaired on an ebonite flute, not on a wooden one. A slight curving is to be expected on all older wooden flutes.Sizes of Flutes
Flutes are actually made in several different sizes.
The soprano or concert flute- is the most familiar flute and considered musically the most versatile and satisfactory.
The alto flute is wider and longer than the soprano and starts a half octave below it, on G. Its tone is very rich and mellow. Because of the larger volume of air, it requires more breath and is slower to respond. (This size of flute was previously referred to as bass, and in Europe it is still sometimes mistakenly called by this name.)
The bass flute starts one more half octave below the alto, on C. It is so long that the head joint has to be curved a full 180 degrees to allow the flutist to reach the mouth hole. Its tone is extremely deep, and even more breath is required than on the alto.
The F-flat flute is a slightly smaller version of the soprano. Its main use is for children whose hands are not yet large enough for a standard flute.
The piccolo is a small flute with a high, shrill tone. Most piccolos are made in the key of C, playing one octave higher than the concert flute; another type, the D-flat piccolo—formerly popular but now becoming obsolete—plays one note higher. There are two major models of the piccolo: the metal cylindrical-bore model, which is easier to blow and has more stable intonation; and the wooden, conical-bore model, which is less shrill.Source: Finding Your Flute : Tips on choosing, renting, and buying anew or used flute, By: Mark Shepard
